Kazakhstan

The best way of getting around the country is by using the cheap and extensive railroad network. Distances are huge in Kazakhstan – the trip from Almaty to Astana takes around 24 hours on a regular train – so expect to take overnight trains for most journeys. There is a fast train – the Talgo or Spanish train – which cuts the journey time in half, but it is an expensive option.

The sleeper trains make a good alternative to Kazakhstan’s overpriced hotel rooms. At the top end of the market is SV class – a two-person compartment. Next best is coupe – a four-person compartment, and then there is the cheapest variant, platzkart – which gives you a bunk in a carriage with 63 other people. Platzkart is the best way to travel if you want to get up close to the locals and avoid being force-fed vodka and sausage in SV and coupe.

Flying is expensive, there are no budget carriers and Air Astana has a monopoly. Buses are quick and cheap but don’t offer the comfort of the train and the drivers are keen to get to their destinations as quickly as possible, letting no one get in their way.

Hitching is a possibility if you have time on your hands. In towns and cities many cars double up as taxis, just put your hand out and wait. Agree the price before getting in the car.

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