Hong Kong

From its nineteenth century roots as a preeminent shipping port, through its status as a global manufacturing hub, to its current position as an international financial services market and gateway to China, Hong Kong citizens have continuously transformed when presented with opportunities. This mindset provides Hong Kong with its energy but also presents a conundrum. While the next phase of development (there is always a next phase) will certainly obliterate the charming, if cluttered, alleys, shops and villages, razing the old in favor of the new aptly defines the Hong Kong people.

Hong Kong certainly has the people to manage the next transformation. With some of the world’s densest population areas, Hong Kong can overwhelm as personal space disappears into the morrass of crowded malls, streets and transportation. The numerous economic reinventions have produced a sizable wealth gap between the successful property developers, manufacturers and tycoons and everyone else.

Civil unrest from this gap hasn’t bubbled up – yet. However, the annual street protests coinciding with the July 1st handover to China show that residents are increasingly willing to publicly show their dissatisfaction.

For many of the 6.9 million residents, efficiency consistently trumps courtesy but comes in second behind getting something for free; there is always time for a good deal. A trip on the oft-crowded Mass Transit Railway (i.e. subway) showcases how passengers push onto crowded cars without waiting for people to exit. However, upon exiting they race to the escalator and stand still; why walk up the escalator and pass up the ‘free’ service?

Despite the drive for efficiency, Hong Kong people are generally courteous and non-confrontational. Attempts to speak Cantonese are often met with smiles and agreeable nods – even if they don’t have a clue what you said. However, this doesn’t mean that people won’t criticize you behind your back.

Hong Kong people work hard. Effort and attention to detail produce high service standards in everything from five star luxury hotels to local congee shops. A raised hand in a restaurant often leads the closest employee to quickly scurry over and attend to your need. Assigned tables don’t exist, only good service matters – and Hong Kong delivers good service.

Despite being highly work focused, Hong Kongers are fiercely loyal to family. However, 12 hour work days and 6 day work weeks often drive the obligatory multi-generational gatherings, usually over food, to Sundays and holidays. While missing the weekly family Yum Cha meal causes some trouble, skipping Chinese New Year, the most important holiday in Hong Kong, is akin to snubbing your grandmother at her bridge club.

For most people, comfort exists in crowds. Whilst there’s an abundance of open land in the New Territories and outlying islands, most prefer to live in cramped, high rise apartments.
Because homes are compact, non-family members are rarely invited inside. And since people don’t often visit, plush decorations are rarer. If you are a burned-out interior designer, move to Hong Kong since most people won’t spend money on things other people cannot see. Instead, Hong Kongers meet outside the home to shop, often considered the national sport of Hong Kong, or partake in two other favorite activities: eating and waiting in line to eat.

The number of gweilos (gwhy-lows), a non-pejorative Cantonese word for ‘white ghost’ and referring to Caucasians, has steadily declined since the PRC took over operating control. Gweilo’s presence and influence is largely constrained to the Central (i.e. financial) District on Hong Kong Island. This is where many gweilos shop, eat and ride the longest outdoor elevator in the world from jobs at international banks to exclusive apartments in the Midlevels (creatively named for this areas’ position halfway to Hong Kong Island’s peak).

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