Dublin

The traveller in Dublin won’t be lonely. You’ll have scores of other backpackers, foreign students and tourists to keep you company. Despite the dodgy weather, Dublin is a seasoned stop-off point for Kiwis, Aussies, Spaniards, Italians, Canadians and French. These nationalities tend to fit into the passing through category, although the Aussies and Spaniards tend to stay longer, usually one to two years – the Spaniards learn English, the Aussies drink.

Due to its size, Dublin is hardly daunting and learning to navigate the city comes quite quickly. If arriving in Dublin for the first time, seek out Trinity College. Situated at the end of Dame Street, it’s a good landmark. It’s also the heart of the city. South of the college is Grafton Street and Dawson Street, the posh parts of town. As well as many upmarket shops, there are also copious brasseries and watering holes. Visiting one is a good way to start any day.

Dublin city centre is cut in half at two points; by the River Liffey and Dame Street. In between the Liffey and Dame Street is Temple Bar – Dublin’s cultural hub. As Dublin’s culture emanates singularly from the pub, Temple Bar is a most apt name for the area. The cobbled streets here are lined with bars and a never-ending trail of drunken tourists fall out their doors. Never ones to miss a piss-up, the Dubs add to the madness.

South of Dame Street is George’s Street. Here the atmosphere is more chilled and cultured. Expect to find a greater variety of people, fashions and shops. Lots of funky bars too.

To get to grips with Dublin’s funky café scene head to south William Street and Exchequer Street. That’s where the suave media types, art-eeests and art dealers sip cappuccinos and puff Marlboros. Health stores and vintage clothes shops can also be found here.

Don’t be put off by the many street names listed here. They are all within minutes walking distance of each other – and on the south side of the city. Although the north side has benefited from a facelift in recent years, it has some cultural catching up to do.

The first thing you will notice about Dublin is the number of young people. Dublin is a young city, so if you are in your 20s, fun is guaranteed as like-minded youngsters abound. With young people comes a palpable energy and zeal for adventure. These are definitely the qualities that currently define Dublin.

Every weekend there are many bars, clubs and parties to choose from and all are packed to the rafters with revellers. The Irish ‘gift of the gab’ still holds true; throw in a pint of Guinness and mixing with the locals becomes as easy as finding a drunken leprechaun. A recent survey which tested a small number of euro bank notes found traces of cocaine on every note. Dubliners like to party! However the scene is very much divided by class and geography. Different bars will cater for very different crowds. It’s really a matter of testing them all to find the scene that suits you.

The second thing you will notice about Dublin is the amount of foreigners. Foreign immigrants now provide all key services such as serving pints, serving wine, serving whisky, washing glasses and sweeping floors. These positions are mostly taken up by Eastern Europeans, Indians and Chinese.

To see a very different side of Dublin, head out on a Sunday afternoon. This is the hour of the traditional ‘seisun’ or session. Local musicians gather in designated bars and jam, Gaelic style. Expect to hear fiddles, tin whistles, banjos and heartfelt singing all washed down with a pint of the black stuff.

The best thing about Dublin is that it has the energy and diversity of any modern city but it is all presented in a very small package. Within days, expect to know your way around, have a favourite bar and to have been extremely drunk at least twice.

With so much going on every weekend, check out local newspapers such as The Independent or The Herald for event guide listings. There is also a weekly free guide called The Event Guide. Popular web sites include www.entertainment.ie, www.ireland.com/theticket or www.frankthemonky.com.

If you do need help, all hostels will have an information centre where the traveller can find out about work, clubs and travel options to other parts of the country. If you plan to stay a bit longer and want to find work, check out www.nixers.com for a list of part-time and out of the ordinary work options.

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