Dublin

Dublin is a young city; the majority of people are under the age of 35. The city’s newfound wealth is due, in no small measure, to the ethos of its youth: work hard, play harder. Only forty years ago, vast numbers of Dubliners struggled to find work and lived in squalid conditions. Wealthy residents existed, but in the minority and only on the south side of the county. The divide between the north and south side of the county remains prevalent to this day although the boom has obliterated the economic differences.

To understand the modern mind-set of today’s Dubliners it is essential to grasp the impact of Ireland’s soaring economy. Once branded little more than potato-eating blagards, today’s Dub will happily don their Gucci scarf, Hillfiger coat and brave the elements with a new found confidence.

This confidence is derived mostly from the security of a monthly pay-cheque and a colourful variety of credit cards. Obsessed with the American breed of Celebrity Culture, Dubliners love their designers. Unless it has a recognisable label, most Dubs won’t be interested in wearing it or having it in their home.

The inner city has its own breed of residents, noted for their harsh accents, cheap clothing (most commonly shiny tracksuits) and boisterous mannerisms. These are Dublin characters and to their minds, the true ‘Dubs’. They live in council flats dotted across the city centre, on Gardiner Street, Thomas Street, Oliver Bond Street and Dorset Street.

Traditionally they owned stalls on Moore Street, to eek out a living, selling everything from fish and flowers to knick-knacks and KitKats; anything that would earn them a ‘bob’ or two. They were, and still are, skilled hustlers. Today, Moore Street is a relic of a bygone era, although there are still some die-hard traders, many have been put out of business by the huge commercial centres that have gone up around them.

Out in the suburbs, life has a certain Twin Peaks quality. Ireland is unique to Europe in terms of its home ownership figures; it is seen as a mark of achievement to own your home. The boom has allowed everyone to become homeowners and now housing estates are the predominant feature of the county’s once green countryside. The second most dominant mark of a Dubliner’s wealth after home ownership is how much cocaine they can afford. Dubliners also have the highest percentage of cocaine use in Europe. The leafy suburbs, distinctly American in their layout, barely veil a robust hedonism that all Dubliners are enthusiastically exploring.

At the weekend, everyone goes out. The city’s bars and restaurants are packed. With plenty of cash to flash, everyone, irrespective of background is out for a good time and the scene is lively. However, with everyone also hell-bent on having a better time than their neighbour, the atmosphere in certain places can also be a little jaded. The scene is new but the old prejudices still exist. In short, Dubliners are still very much trying to find their feet. Like kids, they are eager to discover and only too happy to get burnt.

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