Kazakhstan

Finding a cheap place to stay in Kazakhstan is difficult. The main towns and cities have overpriced Soviet-era hotels in various states of decay. Most new hotels were built with oil workers and business travelers in mind and so are swanky, top end of the market joints. The former favorite haunts of the few backpackers in town, the Kazzhol and the Uyut, have gone upmarket and now charge around 60 USD for a single room 95 USD for a double. The cheapest, centrally-located hotel is the one run by the Almaty circus with rooms starting from 20 USD per person per night. The Zhetisu, handily located for bars, shops and restaurants, has singles for 60 USD per night and singles for 30 USD. Polye Chudes is located along way out of town in the Aksay district but has rooms from 25 USD per night. If Almaty’s pollution proves too much for you, then head for the nearby ski resort of Chimbulak, the hotel has double rooms for around 60 USD per night and fresh, mountain air.

In Astana the best value hotels are the centrally-located Abai, which has singles for 50 USD and doubles for 75 USD and the Aka hotel which has singles for 40 USD and doubles for 70 USD. It is located on the main road into town from the train station and is served by the 21 bus. There is a small hotel in the main bus station which has some rooms for hire. A better option for the independent traveler is find a homestay or apartment to rent. Flats are easy to come by – people wait at the bus and railway stations holding signs saying KBAPTIPA (pronounced kvartira) and prices start from around 30 USD for a one-room apartment in the big cities. You can usually get a reduction if staying for a few nights.

In Almaty, people hang out on Ablay Khan Street in front of the Zhetisu hotel offering rooms and apartments by the hour or day. There is an agency near Almaty’s Green Bazaar which rents apartments by the day (tel 7-327 2738668). Outside of Astana and Almaty prices are cheaper. Ecotourism Kazakhstan (www.ecotourism.kz) can arrange homestays in various parts of the country from 15 USD per night – this price includes meals. Couch surfers will find like-minded types in Almaty, Karaganda, Astana, Petropavlovsk and Shymkent ( www.couchsurfing.com).

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