Fes is a city straight out of 1001 Nights and is one of the rare occasions that the UN has proved remotely effective – its World Heritage scheme prevents ancient cities like Fes from being demolished for a new Wal-Mart and accompanying mall.
Fes does have plenty of irritating Moroccan tour guides who are authorised hustlers but if you manage to shake them off then walking through the suq is a pleasure that belongs to an age you might have thought long dead. Buy yourself an Arabic flute, a hookah and scented tobacco but whatever you do, don’t ask to buy any tall red hats imagining that this is where the fez comes from.
There is a ghastly new section to Fes but you’ll want to stay deep within the labyrinth side streets of the old city, though don’t be surprised if you end up paying some insolent kid to lead you out again.
Check out the Road Junky Morocco Guide.